Halaal FarmsGhana · Hatchery
Layer Farming and Eggs

Collecting, Grading and Storing Table Eggs

How often to collect eggs, keep nests clean, deal with dirty eggs, grade by size, store eggs in Ghana's heat and cut breakages on the way to the buyer.

Hand picking eggs from a wicker basket

Key points

  • Collect at least four times a day on deep litter and three times in cages, with most rounds before midday when the bulk of eggs are laid.
  • Collect straight into trays, pointed end down, and never into buckets or basins.
  • Dry-clean lightly soiled eggs and keep heavily soiled ones out of your sales, because washing in cool water pulls bacteria through the shell.
  • Grade for cracks and shell faults first, then by weight, so that every tray holds eggs of one size and stacks safely.
  • At ordinary Ghanaian temperatures aim to sell eggs within a week of lay, and store them shaded, off the floor and away from strong smells.

An egg leaves the hen at about 41°C, slightly damp, with thousands of fine pores running through its shell. Over the next few minutes the outer coating dries into a thin seal, and as the egg cools its contents shrink and a small air cell forms at the blunt end. From that moment the egg can only lose quality. It cannot gain any. Every hour in a hot nest, every knock in a bucket, every day in a store under an iron roof takes a little away.

The farmer's job between the nest and the buyer is therefore to slow that loss and avoid damage. None of it needs expensive equipment. It needs a timetable, clean nests, decent trays, a cool corner and a habit of counting what gets broken.

Why eggs should not sit where they are laid

An egg left in a nest is sat on by the next hen and the one after. It stays warm for hours when it should be cooling. It is walked on by dirty feet, pushed against other eggs and, sooner or later, cracked. A cracked egg in a nest is the start of something worse. Hens taste the contents, learn that eggs are food, and egg eating spreads through the pen.

In cages the egg rolls out of reach, but it still sits in the open tray in the heat of the house, collecting dust, and later eggs roll into it. Shell-to-shell collisions on a crowded tray produce hairline cracks that you only discover when the buyer complains.

A collection timetable that works

Hens lay most of their eggs in the first five or six hours of their day. If the lights come on before dawn, or the flock wakes at first light, the bulk of the day's eggs have been laid by late morning. Collections should be concentrated there.

SystemSuggested roundsReason
Deep litter with nest boxesAbout 8 am, 10 am, 12 noon and 3 to 4 pmNests fill fast in the morning. The last round clears the house before night.
CagesAbout 10 am, 1 pm and 4 pmTrays must not overfill, and eggs should leave the heat of the house.
New pullets, first four weeks of layAdd extra walks through the house for floor eggsA floor egg left lying invites other hens to lay beside it.
Very hot daysAdd a roundEggs in a house above 30°C age quickly.

Fix the times and keep to them. Regular rounds also make your daily egg count comparable from one day to the next. Never leave eggs in the house overnight. They are warm for another twelve hours and they are there for rats and snakes.

Nests that give clean eggs

Most dirty eggs are made in the nest, so cleanliness starts there.

  • Enough nests. Provide one individual nest for every four or five hens. With too few, hens queue, then give up and lay on the floor.
  • The right size and place. A box about 30 cm wide, 30 cm deep and 35 cm high suits commercial layers. Fix the nests off the floor with a rail in front for hens to step onto, in the dimmer part of the house. Hens look for a dark, enclosed place.
  • Open in good time. Have nests in place a week or two before the first eggs, so that pullets explore them before they need them.
  • Dry bedding. Keep about 5 cm of clean wood shavings in each nest. Top up weekly and replace at once any bedding fouled by droppings or a broken egg.
  • No sleeping in nests. Hens that roost in the nests soil them overnight. Provide perches, and if the habit persists, close the nests at dusk and open them before the birds wake.
  • Dry litter at the approach. Feet that have walked through wet litter around a leaking drinker stamp every egg in the nest. Fix the leak and the eggs get cleaner.

For floor eggs, act in the first weeks of lay. Walk the house often, pick up every floor egg, and lift any pullet you find settling in a corner into a nest. Put extra light into dark corners and under equipment, where hens are tempted to lay.

Collect into trays, never into buckets

The bucket and the basin are the biggest avoidable cause of cracks on small farms. Eggs piled ten deep press on the ones at the bottom, and each new egg lands on shell. Carry egg trays into the house and place each egg directly in a cell, pointed end down.

  • Wash and dry your hands before each round.
  • Take three kinds of tray: one for clean sound eggs, one for dirty eggs, one for cracked eggs. Sorting at the nest saves handling the same egg twice.
  • Pick up no more eggs in one hand than you can hold without squeezing.
  • In a hand-carried stack we suggest no more than six loaded trays. Use both hands and keep the stack level.
  • Take the eggs straight to the store. Do not leave trays on the floor of a hot house while you finish other work.

Dirty eggs: dry-clean them, and be wary of washing

Sort soiled eggs into two groups. Lightly marked eggs, with a spot of droppings or a smear of dust, can be dry-cleaned. Rub the mark off gently with a dry abrasive pad, fine sandpaper or a clean dry cloth, and change the pad often. Heavily soiled eggs, and any egg smeared with the contents of a broken one, should not go to customers. Use the sound ones promptly at home, cooked through, and discard the rest.

Washing seems the obvious answer and usually makes matters worse. Two things go wrong. Water removes the natural coating that seals the pores. And if the water is cooler than the egg, the contents contract and draw water, with whatever bacteria it carries, through the shell. An egg washed in a bowl of cold water with fifty others looks clean and spoils faster than a dirty one.

Commercial egg washing avoids this with clean running water kept noticeably warmer than the eggs, an approved sanitiser, immediate drying and cold storage afterwards. Without all four, do not wash. Never soak eggs, and never wipe a batch with the same wet rag.

Cracked eggs are a separate product. A crack is an open door for bacteria. Keep cracked eggs cool, sell them the same day at a lower price to buyers who will cook them at once, or use them at home. Throw away leakers. Never hide cracked eggs in the middle of a tray. One leaking egg glues the tray to the one below and costs you the customer.

Grading: quality first, then size

Quality

Before size, take out the eggs that should not be in a first-grade tray: cracked, thin-shelled, badly misshapen, rough or heavily stained. Hairline cracks are invisible in daylight. In a dim room, hold each egg, or a few at a time, against a strong torch and the cracks show as bright lines. The same light shows the air cell at the blunt end. In a fresh egg it is shallow, a few millimetres deep, and it grows as the egg ages, so candling a sample is also a check on how long eggs are sitting in your store.

If the share of thin or misshapen shells is rising, the cause is in the flock and not in the handling. Our guide to thin shells, soft shells and misshapen eggs goes through the causes.

Size

In Ghanaian markets eggs are mostly traded by the crate of 30 as small, medium, large and jumbo, judged by eye. Judging by eye drifts, and arguments follow. A kitchen scale that reads to the gram settles it. Weight bands differ between countries. As a reference, the bands used in the European Union are shown below. Agree your own with your regular buyers, write them down and hold to them.

Grade (EU reference)Weight of one egg
SmallUnder 53 grams
Medium53 to under 63 grams
Large63 to under 73 grams
Extra large73 grams and over

You do not need to weigh every egg. Weigh a few dozen until you have a reference egg at each boundary, keep those beside the grading table, and check doubtful eggs on the scale. A young flock lays mostly small and medium eggs for its first couple of months, and the proportion of large rises as the hens age.

Size grading pays in two ways. Buyers who want large eggs will pay for a tray that is all large, and small eggs can be priced to move quickly instead of dragging down a mixed tray. The sums are in how to price your eggs and broilers. The second gain is mechanical. A tray of even-sized eggs carries the tray above on all thirty eggs. In a mixed tray, the few big eggs stand proud, take the whole load and crack. Very large and double-yolked eggs should always have their own tray, on top of the stack.

Trays: clean, dry and from your own farm

A paper pulp tray that has gone soft, torn or damp no longer supports the eggs. Throw it out. Plastic trays cost more, last for years and can be washed and disinfected.

Trays are also one of the ways disease and mites travel between farms. A tray that has been to market has sat beside trays from many other farms and comes home carrying their dust and droppings. Do not bring used paper trays back into the egg store or the poultry house, and do not accept other people's trays in exchange for yours. Send eggs out in new paper trays, or in plastic trays that are washed and disinfected on return before they come near the birds. The reasoning is the same as for crates and visitors in our list of cheap biosecurity measures for small farms.

Storing eggs in Ghana's heat

Inside a stored egg, three things happen. Water evaporates through the shell and the air cell grows. The thick white thins and spreads. The membrane around the yolk weakens, so the yolk flattens and breaks easily in the pan. All three speed up with temperature. As a rule of thumb, a day in a hot room ages an egg about as much as several days in a refrigerator.

The ideal store is cool and steady, around 10 to 15°C, with moderately humid air. Few small farms have that. What every farm can do is avoid the worst and take the practical steps below.

  • Choose the coolest room. A shaded room with a ceiling under the roof and openings for air to pass through. A bare iron-roofed shed can exceed 40°C in the afternoon and is the wrong place for eggs.
  • Keep eggs off the floor and off the walls. Stack trays on a pallet or table, a hand's width from the wall, so that air moves around them and damp and ants do not reach them.
  • Keep out sun, rats and smells. Eggs take up odours through the shell. Do not store them with kerosene, diesel, paint, agrochemicals, disinfectant, onions or fish.
  • Date every stack. Put a slip with the day of lay on each stack and sell the oldest first. Never top up yesterday's tray with today's eggs.
  • If you refrigerate, stay refrigerated. Eggs taken from a cold room into humid air sweat. The moisture on the shell carries bacteria and mould spores inwards. Chill only eggs that will stay cold until the customer has them, or let them warm slowly in their packs before they are opened.

If cocks run with your hens, the eggs are fertile, and in a warm store the embryo can begin to develop, which customers find when they crack the egg. A table-egg flock needs no cocks. Eggs kept for incubation follow different rules on temperature, position and length of storage, set out in selecting and storing hatching eggs.

Hand collecting eggs into a bowl
Hand collecting eggs into a bowl.

How long will an egg keep?

There is no single figure, because it depends on temperature and on how clean and sound the shell was to begin with. The table gives approximate guidance for eating quality, assuming clean, uncracked eggs.

Where the egg is keptApproximate time it stays in good condition
Ordinary room in Ghana, around 28 to 32°CAbout one to two weeks
Cool store, around 15°CAbout three to four weeks
Refrigerator, around 4 to 7°CFour to five weeks or longer

For a farm storing at room temperature, the working rule is to have eggs off the farm within a week of lay, sooner in the hottest months. That leaves the trader and the household a few days each. If eggs are regularly older than that when they leave, you have a marketing problem, and building regular outlets is the answer. See supplying eggs to shops, schools and hotels.

Getting eggs to the buyer in one piece

Most transport breakage is decided before the vehicle moves.

  1. Remove every cracked egg first. A hairline crack at the farm is a leaker after ten kilometres of rough road.
  2. Pack by size. One size per tray, jumbo eggs on top.
  3. Bundle the trays. Tie stacks of five or six with an empty tray on top as a lid, firmly enough that the trays cannot slide, not so tight that the string cuts in.
  4. Prepare the load floor. It must be flat. Lay cardboard, sacking or old foam under the stacks, pack them tightly side by side so that none can tip, and fill gaps with empty trays.
  5. Nothing heavy on top, nothing smelly alongside. No feed bags on the eggs and no fuel cans beside them.
  6. Travel in the cool. Leave early in the morning. Shade the load with a cover held clear of the trays so that air still passes.
  7. Drive for the eggs. Slow down on untarred roads and over speed ramps. On a motorbike or tricycle, use a rigid padded box or crate fixed to the carrier, not trays tied on with rubber.
  8. Count at the other end. Open the load with the buyer, count breakages together and write the number down. Agree in advance who bears breakage in transit.

Count what you lose at each step

You cannot reduce a loss you have not measured. Add four lines to the daily egg record: floor eggs, dirty eggs, eggs cracked at collection, and eggs cracked at grading and packing. On each delivery note, record breakages on arrival. After two weeks you will know your own baseline and where most of the loss occurs. Fix the biggest line first, then measure again. You can see what each lost crate does to the margin in the poultry profit calculator.

Halaal Farms Ghana supplies table eggs, fertile hatching eggs and layer day-old chicks from Opeikuma, Kasoa, with delivery to all 16 regions. For eggs, chicks or advice on handling the eggs your own flock lays, call 024 915 1503 or send the order form. Price and delivery cost are confirmed before you pay.

Questions farmers ask

Should eggs be kept in the fridge in Ghana?

Yes, if they can stay there until they are used. At fridge temperature eggs keep their quality for four to five weeks, far longer than on a kitchen shelf. What harms them is moving in and out. Cold eggs brought into warm, humid air become wet with condensation, which helps bacteria and mould get through the shell.

How can I tell if an egg is still fresh?

Put it in a bowl of water. A fresh egg lies flat on the bottom. An egg one to two weeks old tilts or stands on its point because the air cell has grown. An egg that floats is old and should be thrown away. Broken onto a plate, a fresh egg has a high, rounded yolk and a thick white that holds together.

Why are my eggs dirty even though I clean the nests?

Look at what the hens carry in on their feet. Wet litter around drinkers and in front of the nests is the usual cause. Other causes are hens sleeping in the nests at night, too few nests so that hens lay on the floor, loose droppings from a feed or health problem, and late collection that leaves eggs to be walked on.

Which end of the egg should face down in the tray?

The pointed end. The air cell is at the blunt end, and keeping it uppermost holds the yolk near the centre of the egg and stops the air cell from shifting or breaking loose. Eggs packed this way keep better and travel better. It also puts the stronger, narrow end of the shell at the bottom where the load is carried.

Written by the Halaal Farms Ghana team. We hatch and import day-old chicks at Opeikuma, Kasoa, and deliver to all 16 regions. This article is general guidance for farmers. For diagnosis and treatment of sick birds, speak to a vet or your district veterinary office.

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