Charcoal Pot, Gas Brooder or Electric Bulb: Choosing Brooding Heat in Ghana
Charcoal, gas and electric brooding heat compared for Ghanaian farms: running cost, heat output, fire and carbon monoxide risk, and which suits your flock size.
Halaal Farms Ghana team4 October 2026 · 14 min read
Key points
Judge a heat source by what it does at three in the morning, when the air is coldest and nobody is watching.
Charcoal is cheap to set up but needs refuelling every two to three hours and gives off carbon monoxide, so the house must never be sealed.
A gas brooder gives steady, adjustable heat without mains power and suits flocks of a few hundred chicks and above.
Electric infrared lamps are the cleanest option for small flocks, but only with a backup ready for power cuts.
Light a charcoal pot outside and carry it in only when the coals glow red with no smoke or flame.
The real test of a brooding heat source comes at about three in the morning. The air outside is at its coldest, the person on duty is tired or asleep, a charcoal fire loaded at ten has burned low, and if the power was going to fail it has usually failed already. Most chicks that die of chilling do not die at seven in the evening while the farmer is standing over them. They die in the hours before dawn.
So the choice between a charcoal pot, a gas brooder and electric lamps is less about which is cheapest to buy and more about how each one behaves through a whole night, with your flock size, your electricity supply and your labour.
What any heat source has to deliver
A newly hatched chick cannot hold its own body temperature. It depends on outside heat until it has enough body mass and feather cover, which takes roughly two weeks in broilers and a little longer in layer chicks. In Ghana that usually means heat around the clock in the first week and mainly at night in the second and third. During the rains or the harmattan, a fourth week of night heat is common. The usual starting target is about 32 to 34°C at chick level, coming down by 2 to 3°C each week. The full schedule is in our chick brooding guide.
Measure every heat source against the same five questions.
Can it hold the target temperature at the coldest hour of the night, not just in the evening?
Can it be turned down quickly? By early afternoon the house itself may be at 33°C, and a heater that cannot be reduced will cook the chicks.
What does it do to the air: fumes, moisture, oxygen used?
How easily could it set dry litter alight?
What happens when the fuel or the power runs out, and who has to be awake to deal with it?
All three main options are radiant heaters. Glowing charcoal, the hot plate of a gas brooder and an infrared lamp warm the chicks and the litter directly, the way the sun warms your skin, instead of heating the air first. That suits an open-sided house, where warm air escapes through the curtains.
Charcoal pots: cheap to set up, costly in attention
The coal pot is the most widely used brooding heater on small farms for good reasons. The equipment costs very little, charcoal is sold in every town and village, and it works when the grid is down. A well-loaded pot gives strong radiant heat.
Its weaknesses all come from the fact that a charcoal fire cannot be set and left.
The heat rises and falls. A fresh load burns fiercely for the first hour and then fades. Chicks near the pot are too hot at eleven and too cold at three. The fire needs topping up every two to three hours, all night, for two to three weeks.
It cannot be turned down. You control it only by how much you load, how far it stands from the chicks, and by taking it out of the house.
It gives off carbon monoxide, covered in the next section.
It is a fire on a floor of wood shavings. A spark, a spilled coal or a pot knocked over can start a fire in seconds.
It makes dust and ash, which irritate the chicks' airways.
Making a charcoal pot as safe and steady as it can be
Light the pot outside. Carry it in only when the coals glow red all over, with no smoke and no yellow flame. A fire that is still catching gives off the most smoke and fumes.
Stand it on concrete blocks or in a wide metal tray of sand, with the litter cleared from underneath, so the hot base never touches shavings.
Put a wire mesh cage around it, wide enough that a chick pushed against the wire is not burned.
Use two smaller fires in place of one large one, and refuel them at different times. One pot is then always at full glow while the other is being topped up.
Use dry, well-burnt lump charcoal. Damp or half-burnt charcoal smokes heavily. Store the bag off the floor and under cover.
Keep a bucket of dry sand at the door for a spill. Water on a charcoal fire throws up steam and ash over the chicks.
A metal charcoal stove with a flue pipe that carries the fumes outside is a clear improvement on an open pot, if you can get one.
How many pots you need depends on the pot, the charcoal and the night. As a starting point, allow one ordinary household pot for a ring of 100 to 150 chicks, have a second ready, and let the thermometer and the chicks decide.
Carbon monoxide: the danger you cannot see or smell
Charcoal that burns with too little air produces carbon monoxide. The gas has no colour and no smell. It takes the place of oxygen in the blood, and it affects chicks and people in the same way. A brooding room wrapped tightly in tarpaulin on a cold night, with a pot burning inside, is exactly the condition in which it builds up.
In chicks the signs are easy to mistake for something else: the birds become drowsy and unresponsive, breathe with effort, stagger, and are found dead near the heat, often in good body condition and without the tight heaps that chilling causes. If a chick is opened soon after death, the blood and tissues can be an unusually bright cherry red. In people, the early signs are headache, dizziness, nausea and weakness.
Charcoal rules that are not optional. Never seal the brooding area completely. Keep an open strip of 20 to 30 cm along the top of the curtain on the sheltered side all night. Never sleep in the same closed space as a burning pot. If you get a headache or feel dizzy in the brooder house, get out into fresh air at once, open the curtains from the top, and take the pot outside.
A badly adjusted gas burner can also produce carbon monoxide. A healthy gas flame is blue, or heats its ceramic plate to an even orange glow. A lazy yellow flame that leaves soot means the burner needs cleaning or adjusting before it is used again. How to keep air moving without chilling chicks is covered in our article on ventilation in open-sided poultry houses.
Gas brooders: steady heat without the grid
A gas brooder is a radiant burner that hangs above the chicks and runs on LPG from an ordinary cylinder through a regulator and hose. Depending on the model, one unit is rated by its maker for anything from a few hundred to about 1,000 chicks.
Its strengths are the ones charcoal lacks. The heat is steady from dusk to dawn. It can be turned up or down with a valve, and some models have a thermostat that does this for you. It needs no mains electricity, and nobody has to wake every two hours to feed it.
The costs and risks are different, not absent.
Higher cost at the start. You buy the brooder, a regulator, a hose, clips and at least one cylinder. A second cylinder is close to a necessity, because gas that runs out at two in the morning is the same as no heater.
Refills and transport. If the nearest filling point is far away, plan refills before the chicks arrive, not during the first week.
It still changes the air. Burning gas uses oxygen and gives off carbon dioxide and water vapour. Each kilogram of LPG burned releases roughly a kilogram and a half of water into the house, which ends up in the air and the litter. The top gap in the curtain stays open with gas too.
Dust blocks burners. Poultry dust clogs the jets and filters. Clean the burner between batches as the maker instructs.
Gas safety checks
At every cylinder change, brush soapy water over the regulator and hose joints. Bubbles mean a leak. Never test with a flame.
LPG is heavier than air and collects at floor level, where the chicks and the litter are. Treat any smell of gas as an emergency: shut the cylinder, open the house, find the leak.
Stand the cylinder upright, outside the brooder ring and away from the heat. Replace a hose that is cracked, stiff or patched.
Hang the brooder on chains from the roof timbers at the height the maker gives, never from the hose.
Electric bulbs and infrared lamps: clean heat that stops when the power stops
Electric heat is the cleanest of the three. It uses no oxygen, makes no fumes, ash or moisture, holds steady all night and is adjusted simply by raising the lamp, lowering it or switching one off. For a small flock in a place with dependable power it is the easiest way to brood well.
The standard tool is the 250 watt infrared heat lamp sold by poultry equipment dealers. A common working figure is one lamp for 75 to 100 chicks in a curtained house in warm weather, and fewer chicks per lamp on cold nights. Old-style filament bulbs of 100 to 200 watts also give useful heat where you can still find them, on a rough rule of one to two watts per chick. LED and energy-saving bulbs do not. They are built to give light without heat, and chicks under them will chill.
Red infrared lamps have an advantage over clear ones. Chicks under bright white light for 24 hours get no dim period to rest, while red light disturbs them less and makes pecking at each other less likely. Light and dark periods are explained in our guide to lighting programmes for chicks and pullets.
The weaknesses are plain.
No power, no heat. A power cut at midnight removes all the heat at once, and sudden darkness can make chicks pile on top of each other. Electric brooding without a backup is a gamble on the grid.
The running cost climbs with flock size. Five lamps for 500 chicks draw 1.25 kilowatts continuously, which is 30 units a day. On a prepaid meter, credit can run out in the night.
Bulbs fail. Keep spares in the house. A hot bulb splashed with water can shatter.
Bad wiring burns houses. A hot lamp that drops onto dry shavings will start a fire.
Wiring a lamp safely
Use ceramic lamp holders. Plastic ones soften and fail under a heat lamp.
Hang each lamp from a chain or wire fixed to a roof timber, so that the cable carries no weight, and fit a wire guard under the bulb.
Start at 45 to 60 cm above the litter and never go so low that the litter beneath feels hot to your hand.
Have an electrician fit cable of the correct rating and a breaker. Do not leave twisted or taped joints hanging above litter.
The three main sources side by side
Charcoal pot
Gas brooder
Electric lamps
Cost to set up
Low
Highest
Low to moderate
Running cost pattern
Daily charcoal plus a night attendant
Cylinder refills, little labour
Units on the meter, rising fast with flock size
Steadiness of heat
Uneven: strong after loading, weak before dawn
Steady and adjustable
Steady while power lasts
Turning it down by day
Awkward: reduce the load or carry it out
Turn the valve
Raise the lamp or switch off
Effect on air
Carbon monoxide, ash, dust
Carbon dioxide and moisture
None
Fire risk
High: open coals on litter
Moderate: leaks and hoses
Moderate: wiring and fallen lamps
Depends on mains power
No
No
Completely
Best fit
Up to a few hundred chicks, and as backup on any farm
A few hundred chicks and above
Up to about 200 chicks with reliable power
Chicks drinking from a water dish.
Working out the fuel bill with your own prices
Fuel prices in Ghana change too quickly for any printed figure to stay right, so learn the method and put in your own current prices. The cedi figures below are examples only.
Electricity
A 250 watt lamp uses 0.25 units an hour, or 6 units in 24 hours. For 100 chicks under one lamp: seven days of continuous heat is 42 units, and 14 more nights of 12 hours each is another 42 units, 84 in total. As an example, if your tariff works out at GH₵ 2.00 a unit, that is GH₵ 168, or GH₵ 1.68 per chick.
Gas
Find the rating plate on the brooder. If it gives kilowatts, divide by 13 to get the kilograms of LPG burned in an hour at full flame. A 3 kW brooder burns about 0.23 kg an hour. Suppose it runs at half setting around the clock in week one (equal to 12 full-flame hours a day) and at half setting for 12 hours a night in weeks two and three. That is about 2.8 kg a day for 7 days and 1.4 kg a day for 14 days, roughly 39 kg in all, or a little under three 14.5 kg cylinders. As an example, at GH₵ 15 a kilogram that is about GH₵ 580. For 500 chicks, about GH₵ 1.16 per chick.
Charcoal
There is no rating plate on a coal pot, so measure. Weigh the charcoal you load in one full day and night during the first week, and again in the second week. Bag weights vary a great deal, so weigh a bag too. As an example only, if two pots for 300 chicks burn 6 kg a day in week one and 3 kg a day for the next two weeks, that is 84 kg. If your bag weighs 40 kg and costs GH₵ 120, charcoal is GH₵ 3 a kilogram and the batch uses GH₵ 252, or 84 pesewas per chick. Then add the cost of the person who stays awake to refuel.
Put these figures next to the value of the chicks. With broiler chicks priced from GH₵ 20 each on our current price list (prices change), ten chicks lost to one cold night cost at least GH₵ 200, before counting the slower growth of the survivors. The cheapest heat is the one that does not fail. You can test how brooding costs and losses affect a whole batch in the poultry profit calculator.
Which source for which flock size
One or two boxes (50 to 100 chicks). Infrared lamps if your power is dependable, with a charcoal pot and a bag of charcoal standing by. If power is poor, one or two charcoal pots handled with the safety rules above.
100 to 500 chicks. Charcoal pots are workable if someone reliable is on night duty. This is also the size at which one gas brooder starts to pay for itself in labour saved and steadier chicks. Electric lamps become expensive and need heavy wiring.
500 chicks and above. Gas, one brooder to each ring, with spare cylinders. Managing many charcoal fires through the night at this scale is where mistakes and fires happen.
Layer chicks, guinea keets and turkey poults. These need heat for longer than broilers, and keets and poults need a warmer start. A source that is tolerable for two weeks of broiler brooding can be exhausting over four or five weeks, which favours gas.
Keep a second source ready before the chicks arrive
Every heat source fails in its own way. Power goes off, a cylinder empties sooner than expected, the charcoal seller has none on the day. The farms that lose chicks are usually those that discover this at night with nothing else in the house. Before placement, have these in place:
A charcoal pot, a stand, a guard and at least one bag of dry charcoal, whatever your main source is.
A spare full cylinder if you use gas, and spare bulbs if you use lamps.
A torch or rechargeable lamp, so a power cut does not leave chicks in sudden darkness.
A minimum and maximum thermometer at chick height, read every morning, so you know how the heater performed while you slept.
If chicks do start dying in the first days, the pattern of where and when they are found tells you whether heat was the cause. That is worked through in our article on why chicks die in the first week.
Halaal Farms confirms the hatch date and delivery with you before you pay, which gives you a fixed day to have fuel bought and the heater tested. If you are unsure which source fits your house and flock, call 024 915 1503 or send the order form with your numbers. Advice is free, before and after you order.
Questions farmers ask
How many chicks can one 250 watt infrared lamp brood?
A common working figure is 75 to 100 chicks per 250 watt infrared lamp in a curtained house in warm weather, and fewer per lamp on cold, wet or windy nights. Treat it as a starting point. Hang the lamp 45 to 60 cm above the litter, watch how the chicks spread, and add a second lamp if they crowd tightly under the first.
Is it safe to sleep in the brooder house when a charcoal pot is burning?
No. Burning charcoal gives off carbon monoxide, a gas with no smell or colour that kills people as well as chicks. Never sleep in a closed room with a charcoal fire. The night attendant should sleep in a separate, ventilated space and come in to check the chicks, and the brooding area should always have an open gap at the top of the curtains.
Do LED or energy-saving bulbs keep chicks warm?
No. LED and compact fluorescent bulbs are designed to turn electricity into light with very little heat, so they brighten the brooder without warming it. Chicks under them will chill at night. For electric brooding you need infrared heat lamps or old-style filament bulbs, and for anything more than a few boxes of chicks, gas or charcoal is usually the more practical source.
How many weeks will I need to heat my chicks in Ghana?
Plan for heat day and night in the first week, then mainly at night in the second and third weeks. In warm, dry weather many broiler flocks need little heat after about two weeks. During the rains, in the harmattan or in the north where nights are colder, expect to give night heat into the fourth week. Layer chicks, keets and turkey poults usually need heat for longer than broilers.
Written by the Halaal Farms Ghana team. We hatch and import day-old chicks at Opeikuma, Kasoa, and deliver to all 16 regions. This article is general guidance for farmers. For diagnosis and treatment of sick birds, speak to a vet or your district veterinary office.
A diagnostic guide to first-week chick deaths. Use the day, the place and the look of each dead chick to tell chilling from overheating, starve-outs, navel infection, piling and weak chicks, then fix the cause.
The rains bring damp litter and wind-driven water. The harmattan brings dust, dry air and nights far colder than the afternoons. Here is how to adjust heat, curtains, litter and water for each.
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